Located on the wall of one of the mountains near Gubo, a small town in the region of Gheralta, is the church of Maryam Bezuhan from the fourteenth century (according to what they told me) this was perhaps one of the most impressive churches in the the rock I visited in Tigray Province. As in other churches in Tigray, to go inside and visit you need to first find the village priest who has the keys, so if he's not for some reason at home or in town, you can not go inside the church. After waiting for the priest and paying the 50 birs for the visit, the priest agrees to show this curious disused church and the remains of ancient paintings, prints of crosses on the roof, ancient leather books... all while fleas don't stop biting your calves.
There are several rock-hewn churches that make up the group Teka Tesfai but the Adi Kasho church completely fascinated me, for several reasons, one of them is the etchings on the rooftops, another is the corridor surrounding the entrance and another is its spectacular dimensions that I couldn't visit in more detail as I forgot my torch. Scholars in the field say it is the oldest church in Tigray and perhaps in all of Ethiopia and they date it as belong to the end of the 10th century or the beginning of the 11th. This leaves it very questionable what I was told about the antiquity of the church of Maryam Bezuhan. As usual in these churches, each is to seek the priest in the village so he can show it to you, so yes, always upon payment, in this case 100 birr for this church is certainly well deserved but for others it seemed excessive. To access these churches of Teka Tesfai you just have to get on any bus or truck in Wukro going north (Adigrat) and tell the driver to let you know in the beginning of the road leading to them, nothing more dive in, as if by magic kids appear and offer to be a guide in exchange for a tip and that will lead to them besides going alerting each priest.